February 2018 - The Dane

After a few rocking and rolling days across the Drake Passage most passengers were ready for solid ground. We were here… The 7th continent! If you missed it, be sure to read how we got here.

Our 4th day onboard Sergey Vavilov had positioned us near Turret Point which would be our first “landing” in Antarctica.

Landings are when the ship anchors, or maintains engine power to stay in relative position, and then lowers the Zodiac Boats into the water. While that is happening, all 92 passengers get in their gear; I was in 4-6 layers depending on the day and weather. It snowed at some point each day we were there, and it was windy! It snowed at some point each day we were there, and it was windy! All outer gear quickly ends up in the hallways hanging to dry, outside the cabins.

You make your way from the cabins and to the “mud room” where you grab your boots and your life jacket. Then head out on the outer deck where you disinfect boots in a “tub” (takes 20 seconds). They really don’t want you to bring any foreign objects or bacteria on-shore.

The Staff and Crew work closely together in operating the crane and lowering in the Zodiacs. It is a very impressive and super quick process. Video below:

One Ocean “caps” each Zodiac boat with 10 passengers and 1-2 staff members. There is a barrel in each boat containing basic survival equipment and engine repair kits. Pretty impressive.

On shore there are no fancy piers or harbors. Just shore lines with either rocks, or lots of small rocks, and waves… Makes for a fun landing! And sometimes a bumpy return:

When returning; you make your way up on the side of the ship, and then enter via the “gangway”

The life on shore is impressive. Penguins, lots. Adelie, Gentoo, Chinstraps, and even one lonely King Penguin.

Feeding time:

And yes; they can be loud:

Hiking in the snow was a favorite. Getting up above and gather a view over the area gives you a new perspective, and some exercise!

Seals are also plentiful here.

Each day we would arrive at a new place. The journey to each was beautiful.

On three shore landings did we manage to see some bases.

A few old abandoned bases. One which stood out to me was Detaille Island – Station W built for 8-10 men to conduct scientific research, including meteorological etc. It was established in 1956, and was left in 1959 rather suddenly as the ship that was supposed to pick up the researchers and their gear, was unable to make it to the base. So the men had to load up sledges with just the basics, and make the 30 miles / 50 km journey to the ship. The base is literally a time capsule from the 1950’s. Since very few people get this far south, the items are left in good condition. We were the first ship to get here this season. Some seasons the ice is simply too thick and no one visits.

50+ years hanging here; they should be dry by now

We also got a full tour of the active Ukrainian Vernadsky Research Base

We made our way there from another abandoned hut. The trip below is a hypelapse from our zodiac ride. Our driver may have gotten a bit enthusiastic about ice bergs!

This base also has the southernmost bar in the world, and some homemade vodka! Yes please!

I may have left a Drunkcyclist.com sticker on their bar

Got to see the research areas too. They work on the thinning ozone layer (when not making vodka?).

We saw two Argentinian bases, one of which was occupied but they were too busy to even wave and say hi. Another one was empty.

At one of the bases we had all gone to the top of a massive ridge above the Argentinian base. Jessica and I were some of the first people heading down; well, all of a sudden Jessica stretched her arms out indicating to stop. I looked ahead. Our Expedition leader was in the middle of proposing to his girlfriend, the onboard Yoga instructor – they had been together for years as we would later know their full story as he shared it over dinner with the entire vessel that night. I asked Jessica if it was appropriate to take a picture, as we were the only ones in the vicinity – YES! Luckily the zoom lens was on, and managed to get a great shot that I am sure will go in their photo collection!

Our expedition leader had been busy planning the days activities, including his own!

Some emergency shelters were also spotted. Not places you’d want to spend more than a few nights.

An old whaling boat, and lots of wale bones on this shore landing

In addition to “shore landings” we also did some “Zodiac Crusing” which is exactly that. Cruise around the Zodiacs and spot whales, jumping penguins, massive ice bergs, or just enjoy the majestic nature here. If one didn’t feel small enough on the Sergey Vavilov, then you’d definitely feel small in a Zodiac. What if a whale popped up underneath you? We didn’t ask… But we did see some close by.

Humpback whale, random Sailboat, and Sergey Vavilov – in one shot, from our zodiac

The massive size of ice bergs cannot be described. We saw one that was over 300 ftp from waterline to the top – and remember, 85% is below the water line! The size of some of these are unimaginable.

Some penguins leaping out of the water to catch their breath

The ice is just incredible. It cannot be described. Here’s a video from our zodiac while cruising through some dense, but loose, ice.

Even got spoiled occasionally and had one of our Zodiac drivers bring a thermo along with some hot chocolate! Tasty tasty! I think the other zodiacs were a bit jealous. Note: Pick your Zodiac driver – they are all great, but each has their unique skillset!

Now, there are some serious photographers on board. Gear that probably costs more than my truck. So, naturally there would be a photo competition.

Some semi (and full) professional photographers onboard as well

One of the last nights onboard we had the showing of the selections. Three separate categories, a winner in each, and then an overall winner. The pictures were magnificent. The scenery alone was incredible, and then adding the skills of these photographers. Jessica won the “wildlife” category, with an incredible picture, taken on her SMARTPHONE! She was on to the finals… Three finalists. Amazing pictures. All of which would be worthy of a spot in a gallery. And the winner? Jessica! Even our onboard staff photographer was mind blown by the photo. I would share it here, but probably can’t for now. So stay tuned! But here’s a video of the moment her shot was taken:

One of the stops was the rather unique “Deception Island”. Somewhat difficult to describe, but imagine a very large volcano crater, with a narrow entrance to the caldera. The ship could barely squeeze through “Neptune’s Bellows” as there is a sheer crater wall on your starboard side, and an underwater rock on your port side. And strong winds and big waves all around pushing you around. The captain’s attention here was spot on, and his navigation skills were impressive.

Upon entering you are in this mystical fog atmosphere – you are on a ship, inside an active volcano crater, in Antarctica, about to visit an abandoned whaling station! The whaling station was eventually abandoned and some of the buildings damaged by a volcano eruption in the early 1980’s.

Now do not let the volcano part fool you… But we did do the polar plunge here as it was the only place that offered a “beach”. So 20 of us went – in the frigid Antarctic Waters. Ice bergs floating around in the distance, cold water just breaking into your bones. The worst was actually getting dressed again as you couldn’t feel your limbs. Ever tried putting on socks when you can’t feel your toes, or feet for that matter? Yeah, no fun! Well, it kind of was!

Now, if freezing water wasn’t enough. There was optional camping, on shore. Mid-day there was a mandatory briefing on the ship for those who wanted to attend. Approximately 70 people showed up. Well, about 25 passengers showed up at 9pm when we were ready to head to shore. I guess the cold wasn’t something for everyone.

We dug our little snow hole to keep the wind away, rolled out the bivy sack, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad.

As you cannot use mother nature as your bathroom in Antarctica due to fear of bringing bacteria etc on shore, they had generously provided a basic “tent” with a bucket for the campers. The name: Mr Yum Yum. The advice was to avoid using Mr Yum Yum, or at least get first in line!

Snow flurries falling as we were crawling into our sleeping bags.

Woke up in the middle of the night to the sounds of: Cracking icebergs falling off glaciers, and a passing whale blowing out air. I take that as some good experiences waking up to, even at 3am.

What had been snowy peaks in the evening were now magnificent mountain tops, and sun! Back to the ship for a quick shower and breakfast.

The Russian Crew were amazing. From the cleaning staff that had cabins cleaned twice a day, to the serving staff serving meals in rocky waves, to the captain and his crew navigating between massive icebergs. I was impressed. The officers were rather quiet, but you could tell certain things got them excited:

When the captain rolls on the loudspeaker/PA system for the entire ship announcing a massive ice berg to the side, and then 2 min later announcing (in thick Russian accent) “now we bring ice berg to starboard side of ship”
When they spotted orcas, they’d quickly flip the entire ship and do a doughnut around to see the orca again. We all loved it! What’s a few hundred liters of extra fuel!

We did the Lemaire Channel which was just stunning; and windy. Lots of ice bergs all around, massive mountains, and big glaciers. And the sun was (partly) out. Sensory overload.

One of my initial goals was to make it south of the Antarctic Circle; very few get to go here. Everything in Antarctica is “weather dependent”, or in this case, ice dependent. But we made it! And how do you celebrate at 11am? Mimosas on deck of course.

All trips must come to an end. Cabin packed up, bags packed, waiting. We were anchored offshore of King George Island. We had been told that the plane from Punta Arenas would be leaving in 2 hours with 80 new passengers, and then make the return trip with us. Well, weather was not in our favor. 24 hours later and we tried again. Repack and onto the shore. No pier here, so all bags had to be transported via zodiac – an impressive operation.

King George Island is home to a few bases; Chile, Argentina, Russia, and Chinese.

We offloaded onto the shore, and changed out of our outerwear and into our own personal gear.

Bye bye ship – off to the runway by foot, and mud and snow

It is also home to a gravel runway that our charter jet would utilize.

Jessica stayed behind as she would continue her journey for another 10 days onboard Sergey Vavilov. It was an extended trip option that brings people to a slightly different area. 12 passengers from our group stayed on for this part, and then 80 new passengers joined. They would all finish in the Falkland Islands.

Bye bye from a Russian research base, in Antarctica

Fresh arrivals – and our ride back to South America

Taking off from Antarctica; no security checks, boarding passes, or passenger manifest here!

Our plane ride out:

Summary:

Antarctica was amazing. We sailed 1604 nautical miles / 1845 miles / 2970 km with Sergey Vavilov, with a phenomenal Crew and Staff, through some treacherous waters and narrow passages with ice.

We made our way down to the Antarctic Circle where very few people get to go. Then made our way back up the Antarctic Peninsula.

The sheer size of icebergs, and the majestic mountains impressed me. Penguins are weird, and they shit, a lot, and it smells. It was impressive to witness the whales’ majestic sizes next to the ship. Our fellow passengers were great, and the Staff was incredible. I hope that everyone respects the nature as much as our Staff, Crew and fellow passengers did. There are a few rules when you visit this remote place, but I am glad they are in place, and rarely had to get re-enforced. Start saving, book early, and go!

And while you are home – do consider the things that impacts the overall environment. Understanding the rate of ice melt and temperature rising in these territories are scary.

Random questions I have gotten since my return:

Is it cold?
- Yes. It is Antarctica, in the summer – but the worst is the wind. Layer up. Temperature in the mid 20’s to mid 30s (F), or -4 to + 3 in Celsius.
Did you see polar bears?
- No, you find those in the Arctic (north!)
What did you do each day?
- Wake-up on the ship (except one camping night). Eat breakfast. Go on shore or a zodiac cruise. Return to ship. Eat lunch. Move ship. See awesome stunning scenery from ship. Go on the bridge. Go on shore or zodiac cruise. Return to ship. See awesome stunning scenery from ship. Join a lecture. Join happy hour in the bar. Eat dinner. Hang out with fellow travelers. Play games/bar. Go to bed.
Was it too short or too long?
- It was perfect (for me). 11 days (turned to 12) was great.
Would you change anything?
- No. Maybe add an extra 2 days at the end due to weather issues if flying back from King George Island.

Antarctica, the isolated and remote place that has always spiked a curiosity in many travelers. But getting there isn’t easy. Albeit easier than it used to be. Many brave explorers made several trips, and for some it became their last. Ever read Shackleton and The Endurance?

Antarctica has been on my list for a long time – even though snow and cold weather generally does not appeal to me. I was intrigued. I had to see it.

First of all; Easter Island (where our previous adventure had led us to) to our starting point of the Falkland Islands is a bit of a journey…

Long way from Easter Island to the Falkland Islands – 4220 miles or 6791 km!

Leaving the Easter Island behind, 5 hour flight to Santiago where we spent the night. Early morning 3 hour flight to the Southern Chilean city of Punta Arenas. Here we managed to walk around the city a bit – super windy! Repack, and get some rest, and find an amazing steak dinner in what looked like a regular house on the outside but a phenomenal steak house on the inside! El Fogon De Lalo – it is the red house in case you find yourself in the area!

The steaks were spot on – along with the Pisco Sour

After our night here we were quickly boarding the rather unusual once a week LATAM flight to the Falkland Islands. As the flight crosses Argentinian air space, this is all they allow, otherwise they would shoot down the planes (according to the locals at least)… Lots of hard feelings remain after the British and Argentinian war of the Falkland Island in 1982.

Only air connections are the weekly Punta Arenas flight and the twice a week British Military flight from just outside London (at a rate of well over $3K R/T). It is a quick 90 min. flight for us, landing at a British Air Force base was even more unique. No photos permitted here…. Got our rather unique Falkland Islands passport stamp.

Bussed into the main City of Stanley via 1 hour of unpaved dirt roads with hardly any civilization in between, we got some background info. Hardy folks live here. A total population of around 3,500 people call the Falkland Islands home – most residing in Stanley, and an unknown number of British military personnel. No trees, but rivers of rocks, sheep, and lots of Range Rovers and 4x4s here. The weather can be unforgiving – cold and windy.

Some neat cars here – at the police station

Stanley itself reminds one of a smaller British coastal town. Pubs, red classic phone booths, even an abandoned London double decker bus! We strolled around the streets for a bit.

Sadly this double decker looked like it is only used for storage at the moment

Our visit is brief. We are whisked away to our ship located at the floating “pier”. A Russian ice strengthened research vessel built in Finland in 1988. The “Akademik Sergey Vavilov“. She is just as expected: Built tough and with a clear mission: Polar research and Oceanic acoustic research. Along with her sister vessel, the Ioffe, they work in pairs when doing research. Typically the ships are used for active research by the Shirishov Institute of Oceanology for 4 months each year. The 4 winter and 4 summer months they are used in the Arctic and the Antarctic regions exclusively by One Ocean Expeditions as Expedition Vessels for tourists, and limited research. And this is how we made our way onboard, as tourists 🙂

Aboard, you quickly settle into the basic, but nice cabins. All crew is Russian and the expedition staff varied from Scottish, Canadian, Australian, American, Taiwanese, New Zealand, and Finland. All were absolutely incredible and all had some beyond unfathomable adventures to share. One identified, and named a dolphin species (only 44 exists!), one was the first to have kayaked around Svalbard, others led polar expeditions, some walked with bears, some had photos published in famous museums… Makes one feel like you should probably get off your ass and do even more, says the guy that just checked off his 7th continent.

Our basic cabin – with clothing line and our GPS already installed

Fellow passengers were equally diverse. Aussies, Canadians, South African, British, American, Swedish, and Indian.

Safety was top priority. No shortcuts. Onboard doctor and medical clinic. A few years ago they had to perform surgery on the ship while in rough seas. Not recommended. But the patient survived due to the doctor onboard. Nearest rescue option could be 3-5 days away! We did the mandatory lifeboat drill and enjoyed some fresh air on the decks.

Ever heard of the Drake Passage? Some of the roughest ocean in the world. Guess what? We got to cross it! For 2 full days at sea. During the sea days, there were plenty of options to stay busy; ranging from lectures about sea life, history, to yoga classes as well as some mandatory presentation surrounding safety and marine life. We also had fun doing the “lint picking” where you clean the outerwear of any debris. All had to be inspected and disinfected as you cannot bring any foreign material/bacteria onto the continent.

The bridge was open 99% of the time – so it was neat to hang out here and enjoy the views and learn some Russian, and maybe how to steer the ship!

All meals were great. Breakfast buffet, and sit-down lunch and dinners with three choices for each.

Lots of great passengers and staff kept everyone occupied. Even had some fun games onboard. And we may have brought our own Telestrations game from home!