One cannot phantom how remote this place really is. But I will try:
- It is a 5 hour flight from Chile
- It is a 4 hour flight from Tahiti Those are the only flight options
- The diversion airport is where you came from – you better carry enough fuel
- It is the most remote inhabited island in the world (by default)
- 6,000 people live here. About half speak Rapa Nui and also Spanish
- Bring your own groceries as stuff is really expensive here – we saw lots of coolers coming out of the plane
We touched down on this massive runway (used to be a backup landing spot for the space shuttle!). Picked up park entry tickets, and was greeted by our Airbnb host Leonardo (or his much longer Rapa Nui name) and a traditional flower Lei. A brief drive around the tiny town and we were dropped off at our guest house. My friend Armando in Santiago had put us in contact with his friend Marcelo who lives on the island, and he lent us his basic mountain bikes. And off we were.
Checked out the crater after a steep climb and some dirt. No one else out here on this path.
Also saw a former ceremonial village that was used a few times a year for various ceremonies. Including the “Bird Man Competition” which could best be described as:
- Head to the ceremonial village for a few weeks
- When the birds are about to arrive on the rocky island off the coast, head down the cliff
- Swim!
- Camp on the rocky island
- When the birds lay their egg, get an egg and swim back across and present it to the tribal leader and you and your tribe would get preferred treatment that year
We returned to town, and watched a stunning sunset with a rain storm passing by in the background. Next to these amazing Moai statues.
The Moai were erected on top of an Ahu, and behind you would find ashes of cremated tribal members. The Moai was erected to honor a tribe leader. The Moai statues brings more questions than answers when you see them in person. It is impossible to phantom the sheer size of these and the weight. Average weight was 70 to 80 tonnes! Then to find out they were transported across the island from the “Quarray”, using no machinery (current theory is that they were “walked” using ropes and lots of manpower), where they had been carved out of the side of an extinct volcano crater, by hand, for 2 years, on the most remote island in the world. Built between 1250 to 1500…. ok. I will stop. It is baffling.
The next morning we had a full day of mountain biking ahead of us. Started out along the coast where we saw more Ahu’s and visited some incredible cave system from former lava tubes. Leading straight out of a cliff over the ocean.
Sadly we had a torrential downpour that kept us under a tree for a good 90 minutes, getting soaked eventually, only to find out the 2nd cave we wanted to see was just. A few hundred feet away where we could have stayed dry, oh well.
This set of caves were much larger. Distances of several hundred feet in either direction.
These Moai statues are the only ones facing towards the ocean. The goal of the day was to reach the summit of the island. A thing not a lot of people do as it is hiking only, and not a lot of people attempt it on a bike. Luckily my friend Sebastian (also from Santiago) had given me a great biking itinerary that we followed.
Views were spectacular. The heat, sun, mud, rain, and humidity was a brutal one. Did i say I miss my bike(s)? We started our long decent back down, this time to the other coast, and back home. The next morning we had borrowed Marcelo’s motorcycle for the day. Did i mention how just incredible trustworthy and friendly he was? Giving two random friends-of-a-friend his mountain bikes and motorcycle for free use??? We cruised out along the East coast to the Moai statues here.
Probably the most amazing ones. It was even better as we had the entire place to ourselves, besides the park rangers hanging out in their little hut.
We drove onwards to the Quarray where most of the island’s statues had been carved at. So many finished, and unfinished Moais’ here. It was stunning.
Inside the crater you would find some water, and lots of free roaming horses. There are horses everywhere on the island. Just loving life.
Onwards to the beach, we saw rain approach and we quickly turned off the road, and huddled in the covers of a park rangers hut. We chatted for a good 20 min about life, culture, history etc. I get to practice my Spanish here for sure! We noticed he had a small fire going just outside the hut, and he said that normally there are 2 rangers, and for lunch one will go to the ocean and catch a fish or two, and then cook it over the fire. Fresh lunch!
The first beach we went to was stunning. 2 other people here, and a few more showed up as we left. Waves were big, but manageable. The 2nd beach, and most popular was gorgeous as well, but a tad busier with Chileans enjoying their summer vacation. We had some fresh pineapple that was just delicious.
Back to town we of course caught the rain once again. And got soaked. Picked up some adult beverages as a thank you to Marcelo.
We walked around town, saw the local church and got to witness the locals practicing for the upcoming Rapa Nui festival. The dancing and music was just incredible. Sadly no photos or video was permitted. Some surfers enjoying the sunset and the wave action. We returned to our house to pack for tomorrow’s journey back to Santiago
Next stop, Santiago for 10 hours, then Punta Arenas for the night > Falkland Islands > Antarctica!
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*note that blog entry and all pictures are from a smart phone